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Epicurean Kentuckian: Pintos as main entree . . . or dessert



2017-06-18 - Columbia, KY - Photo by Ed Waggener, ColumbiaMagazine.com(c).
Great Pinto Beans - The ubiquitous protein source may be the unofficial National Food of Adair County. Volunteering an opinion on which restaurant offers the best may result in a challenge to settle the ensuing argument in a too physical fashion, including methods disqualifying one from this office. But there are subtle differences in each establishment's version. This bowl came was a part of a buffet bar which let's one fix it up on one's own, then later order Tabasco or Frank's - vinegar's already on the table - for delivery by the waitress. One thing a Pinto Bean aficionado learns quickly is that not all pinto beans are created equally. That is because everything matters: The source of the beans, how they are cooked, and the preferred ratio of broth-to-bean. That would have been better, above, had broth occupied the greater volume. Some like the dish served piping hot, others prefer tepid. (We think the hotter the better.) Some prefer diced onions mixed in, some fresh green ones pulled in dew time from a local garden. To fix them up, some like them straight, some just check the salt and pepper content and then get down to the business of nourishment. The biggest problem we had with this dish was it had to wait to be dessert. The biggest benefit, by waiting, it was still the best dessert we could have had even though, by then, the temperature was more like ice cream than Bananas Foster. - EW


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