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Epicurean Kentuckian: Cornbread, crime, and literature



2012-10-28 - 1849 Wheeler Hill Road, In The Flatwoods, Adair County, KY - Photo by Ed Waggener.
The perfect crusty cornbread on the cakestand
, amid the baked goodies, evoked literary and culinary thoughts. Cornbread always brings to mind the epic book, "One Lord, one faith, one cornbread," edited by Fred Nelson and Ed McClanahan, with some writings by Wendell Berry and Ken Kesey, among others. And the sight always brings memories of Pete Walker, who had scarcely a prejudice beyond boring people "I can't think of a worst vice than that, being an effing bore," he'd say, and his possibly erroneous bias against the whole state of Indiana, because, he said, "They put sugar in their cornbread." He knew, quite well, it wasn't Bible to do that. So it's great to see the Sherry Turner's cornbread out there, on its pedestal, even if its position in the baked goods line up may have given the impression it was sweet. Of course, it is a dessert, properly crumbled, served in a tall glass with buttermilk and lots of salt. But it's also the bread of choice for many Adair Countians - breakfast, lunch or supper - and the best after school snack any scholar ever ate. (This being Sunday and the books day on CM, also have to mention "The Cornbread Mafia," by James Higdon, a book written about a powerful distributorship, in faraway Marion County, KY; and John Egerton's "Cornbread Nation/the Best of Southern Food writing" series.


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